Anyone who knows me knows that I like food—eating it, cooking it, talking about it—so it’s only appropriate that I do a post about the food we ate in Ghana, especially since I promised such a post months ago. While the ladies in the kitchen often tried to Westernize things for us, we had the chance to try a good variety.
Breakfast
Ben’s not a big breakfast person, but Auntie Aloko made sure we both started the day out with a good meal. Porridge was the standard fare, but the primary grain could also have been oats (my favorite), ground corn, or white rice. White sugar and full-cream evaporated milk were the common condiments, though I also provided raisins for the first couple of weeks. We had eggs that were hard-boiled, fried, or made into thin omelets with tomato, bell pepper, and onion. Ben and I attempted to make a fried egg with a runny yolk (over-easy), but the yolk cooks much faster in the eggs here than at home. Ghanaians typically do not have this full of a breakfast; when the accountants from Accra were at the compound, they usually had about four slices of toast and tea. When more Americans came and another cook, Sister Grace from Accra, joined Auntie Aloko and Rose in the kitchen, we had quite the breakfast buffet (see below). Though I pretty much continued to eat the same things, I did enjoy sprucing up my porridge/oatmeal for the last couple of weeks with peanut butter and bananas!

- Daniel (rocking an SIU Med t-shirt!), Ben, and me helping ourselves to the breakfast.
Lunch/Dinner

- From left to right, fried fish, fried plantains, fresh salad with vinaigrette in the small bowl, some very pale but oh-so-sweet pineapple, and mangoes in the back.
One of my favorite Ghanaian lunches was red-red (I think that’s what it’s called) and fried plaintains. Red-red was cooked black-eyed peas or red beans mixed with palm kernel oil, which is also red, and onions. To add some crunch to the beans, we add gari, dried and ground-up cassava root that looks something like coarsely ground bread crumbs. (In Springfield, you can actually buy gari at the Little World Market on Macarthur…just FYI!) Fried plaintains accompany the beans, and to add a little punch to the whole meal, we use the condiment shitor, a spicy paste made of hot peppers, tomato paste, spices, and fish. Shitor, gari, and dried coconut are commonly carried in small packages by school children to be added to any dish they may have for lunch. I love the shitor especially, and I brought some home to share with friends and family. Another lunch was a slaw sandwich. Auntie took shredded cabbage and carrots and mixed it with leftover fish and some other spices, then pressed the sandwich to warm it. One time, we had them for breakfast, and I added a hard-boiled egg to mine, and it was delicious! Occasionally, watse (wa-chay), a mixture of rice and beans, was served as a light lunch.

- Auntie Aloko stirs the akple while Sarah fans the flame.

- These metal stoves are sold in the marketplace.
One of the real staples of Ghanaian food is steamed dough. Depending on the ratio of corn flour to cassava flour and the potential addition of plaintains, the dish is called something different—akple, abolo, banku, or fufu. Mills do a good business in Agbozume as everyone eats these different doughs and needs their corn or cassava to be ground. In general, the flour is mixed with water over heat, either on the gas stovetop in the kitchen or sitting on a charcoal stove (see picture above). Auntie holds the pot steady while she stirs by bracing her feet on two poles that hook into the handles of the pot. We watched Auntie make akple one night, and it was easy to see how she has developed such strong arms since she stirred and kneaded vigorously with a large wooden spoon almost constantly for 30-45 minutes. Fufu is different in that it is pounded with a huge mallet and mixed with cassava (see picture below). The dough is then wrapped in plastic or, in the case of abolo, in banana leaves and steamed. Pre-made and wrapped abolo can be purchased in the market for those ladies who do not make their own. To eat it, you tear off pieces with your fingers and dip it into whatever soup/stew/sauce is being served with the dough—light soup (a spicy broth with chicken or goat), okra stew (a snotty mess with spinach or other greens), ground nut soup (a peanut soup that we didn’t have the opportunity to try) or pepper sauce are some examples.

- Auntie Aloko (left) folds the dough over and adds water, more cassava, or more plaintain as needed between Stsofe’s pounding.

Beyond these options, we had pretty much the same menu for lunch and dinner—pan-fried chicken or fish, rice or spaghetti topped with tomato sauce, and salad. When we had fish, it was fresh that day in the market. Without refrigeration or freezers in people’s homes, a lot of fish is smoked as a preservation technique and then sold in the market. The smell of the smoked fish is a bit putrid to me, so I didn’t try it. A lady at the Denu market did spit some at me, but that’s a story for a different day.
Fresh fruit was served for dessert, and I have never eaten so many mangoes. The Agamah family has a mango farm that Uncle Elorm manages, so our supply was never-ending. Buying another mango in the U.S. is probably not even worth it after the amazing deliciousness of those in Ghana. We also had fresh pineapple, coconut, oranges, watermelon, and bananas—all fresh and fantastic!

- Mangoes cut and ready to be eaten. I scraped every last bit of fruit off of each piece!
Snacks & Treats
While out in the markets, we usually stayed at our posts for several hours without a break. On occasion, Mark or Daniel would go get snacks for us all to share, and in an effort to prevent GI distress for Ben and me, we’d sample some of the imported packaged foods that is sold in the market. Most of the products come from China, India, or the UAE—cream or onion crackers (the former are like sweet Ritz crackers), glucose biscuits, a whole variety of candies, including “Big Olivary” gum balls. For those of you in medical school, you’ll understand why I found this amusing because all I could think about was that I would be chewing olivary nuclei. One of my favorite treats, which we had while working at Akatsi Junction, was a sachet of FanMilk, a soft-serve vanilla ice cream eaten GoGurt-style. Other local snacks that I preferred to the imported stuff included popcorn, boiled or roasted ground nuts (i.e. peanuts), and plaintain chips. Mixed popcorn and shelled, roasted ground nuts—think Cracker Jack without the caramel—were sold in empty water bottles, one of the many items/containers I saw reused and repurposed in Ghana. Drinks were usually sodas, fruit-flavored in orange, lemon, and fruit cocktail. Malt drinks are also really popular, but not being a huge soda drinker in general, I never tried one.
At the Denu market, I had the good fortune of being the recipient of some thank-you gifts from local sellers. Even though they were helping us out by participating in our research, they were grateful that we were providing them with some information about their health at no cost to them besides their time. One lady gave me a small bag with shriveled, brown, pea-sized seeds. I had no idea what they were, and she simply described them as “sweet.” Foods that would be mildly sweet if at all to Americans are very sweet to Ghanaians, it seemed, which probably speaks to the little to no sugar they add to their foods. Anyway, it turned out that the little seeds were dried taga nuts, something I’ve never heard of before, but they reminded me of sweet soy nuts. I enjoyed them and actually saw the same woman selling them on another market day in Agbozume. Another treat I received at Denu was a couple of fried dough balls, denser than your average doughnut hole in the U.S. and, again, less sweet, but very delicious. I bought a painting at the art market in Accra that shows a woman carrying a case of these on her head, if you’d like to see what it kind of looks like. Both of these treats were made even more special by the fact that I consumed both and didn’t have any diarrhea
Well, I could go on and on, but I think that’s plenty of information on this topic. If you want to try some fried plaintains and shitor, just let me know!